Antananarivo
Antananarivo sits at around 1,280 metres in the central highlands of Madagascar, spread over a dozen hills linked by long flights of steps. The restored Rova, the palace of the former Merina monarchy, looks down over the whole city.
Antananarivo sits at around 1,280 metres in the central highlands of Madagascar, spread over a dozen hills linked by long flights of steps. The restored Rova, the palace of the former Merina monarchy, looks down over the whole city.
The hilltop royal compound, rebuilt after a 1995 fire, and the nearby pink Andafiavaratra Palace, once the prime minister's residence and now a museum of royal artefacts.
The steep Haute-Ville with its brick houses and churches, and the ring-shaped Lake Anosy below, lined with jacaranda trees and centred on a war memorial.
The stalls around Analakely and the Escalier, the crafts market on the Digue road, and the Tsimbazaza zoo and botanical garden, where you can see lemurs in the city.
Many visitors need a visa, which is available on arrival at Ivato airport for short stays; check current rules. The rainy season runs roughly November to April and can bring cyclones. Watch for pickpockets in crowds and markets and take taxis after dark. Madagascar's national tourism board publishes practical guidance.
Most travellers pass through Tana on the way to national parks and the coast. A day or two here, ideally with a guide, covers the history and the markets before you move on.
The old centre is a network of steep pedestrian staircases between the hills. Comfortable shoes and a slow pace matter more than a car.
Ambohimanga, the forested royal hill and World Heritage Site, is about 20 km away and pairs well with a half day in the city.
Do I need a visa for Madagascar?
Many nationalities can get a short-stay visa on arrival at Ivato airport, but rules change. Check before you travel and carry the required fee.
Is Antananarivo safe?
Petty theft in crowds and markets is the main risk. Keep valuables out of sight, use taxis at night and avoid displaying phones and cameras in busy areas.
How do I get around the city?
On foot for the central hills, by negotiated taxi for longer trips, and by taxi-be minibus if you want the local experience.
When is the best time to visit?
The cooler, drier months from May to October. The highlands can be genuinely cold at night in winter, and the summer rains can disrupt travel.
Antananarivo was founded around 1610 as the fortified capital of the Merina kingdom, on the highest of a group of hills in the central highlands of Madagascar. It has been the national capital through the monarchy, French colonial rule and independence.
Its landmarks include the Rova palace complex, the Andafiavaratra Palace museum, the churches and houses of the upper town, Lake Anosy and the Tsimbazaza gardens. The royal hill of Ambohimanga nearby is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
This page is an independent guide for visitors, covering any government and tourism body.
